How to Spec a Garment with POM

POMs are crucial for communicating garment measurements to suppliers and ensuring the right fit. They also allow non-experts to control quality. Knowing how to spec a garment is essential, and we'll share the basic points of measure for apparel. Let's begin!

Your indications about measurements will go in your TechPack and, more specifically in the

• POM page
• How to measure guide

POM Page

The POM page serves as a comprehensive guide for manufacturers to ensure that they take accurate measurements at all the necessary points to create a garment that meets your desired specifications for different sizes. It's important to include all the relevant information on this page, such as the POM codes and descriptions.

Description of POMs and POM Codes

When creating a code for a point of measure in your tech pack, make sure it's easily understood by all who may need to use it. While you can create your own code, remember the importance of clarity in communication.

When creating your code, you need to include:

POM code

Either a number or a letter, it's practical to refer to POM in the ‘How to Measure’ guide.

POM name

Although we’re all about creativity, keep in mind that the functionality of a POM is to create something that’s universally understood. Stick with the basics such as High Point Shoulder or Center Front.

Type of measure

POM can be full measures or half measures. Half measures usually refer to circumferences. You can also have circumference measurements, which mostly refer to woven spec, whereas knit specs are taken laying flat.

Type of measurement

Width, length, height.

Starting location and stopping location

The most common types of POMs

Tops

• HPS - High Point Shoulder: the highest point of the shoulder, measure where the shoulder seam meets the neckline.
• Neck Opening: measure from neck seam to neck seam at HPS.
• Shoulder Drop: measure from HPS to shoulder seam at armhole.Armhole: measure from where the bottom armhole meets the seam to where the top meets the shoulder seam. It can be measured straight or curved.
• Bicep: measure 1” below the armhole, perpendicular to the length of the sleeve.
• Sleeve Length: measure from the shoulder seam to the sleeve opening.
• Across Chest: measure horizontally 1” below the armhole, from side to side.
• Waist: measure horizontally from side to side at a specific distance from HPS.
• Hip: measure horizontally from side to side at a specific distance from HPS.
• Bottom Sweep: measure horizontally straight across from side to side at the bottom of the garment.
• CB - Center Back: measure vertically down the center of the back of the garment.
• CF - Center Front: measure vertically down the center of the front of the garment.
• Body Length: measure from HPS to Bottom Sweep.
• SS - Side Seam: measure vertically from the bottom of the armhole to the bottom hem.

Bottoms

• Upper Waist: measure horizontally straight across from edge to edge of the waistband.
• Lower Hip: measure three Points of Measure below the top waist at the sides and Center Front.
• Front Rise: measure vertically from the crotch seam to the top of the front waistband.
• Back Rise: measure vertically from the crotch seam to the top of the back waistband.
• Thigh: measure horizontally 1“ below the crotch seam, perpendicular to the pant leg.
• Knee Opening: measure horizontally at a certain distance below the crotch seam, perpendicular to the pant leg.
• Leg Opening: measure horizontally straight across the bottom edge of the leg opening.
• Inseam: measure vertically from the crotch seam to the leg opening.

Important Terminology

Grade rules

Grade rules are the key to achieving the perfect fit and aesthetic across all sizes of your garment. Whether you opt for professional-grade rules that follow human anatomy or choose to follow industry standards, the important thing is to be specific for each part of the garment. You must decide how much you want the sleeve to grow between S and M, or the waistband, for example. Ultimately, grade rules give you the power to control the fit and overall look of your apparel in every size, so make sure to invest the time and effort necessary to get them right.

Tolerance

Tolerance refers to the acceptable amount above or below your specified measurement that you are willing to tolerate from the factory. It is denoted with a +/- sign in comparison to the original spec provided. While production and sampling tolerance vary, sampling tends to be more stringent and precise. It's important to note that the tolerance you propose is not a one-way street, and manufacturers must also accept it.

"How to measure" guide

The How to Measure guide is a visual aid that includes sketches and images to indicate where to measure the garments based on the POMs. For added clarity, you can even include a photo of the garment with a measuring tape. Make sure to include the POM codes you've created so that the manufacturer knows precisely how you want them to be interpreted.

For good measure

Tips and tricks to master your POMs!

• Sketch several POMs for every size to ensure the grading is correct
  
  
• Only give the manufacturers the specs necessary to create a garment: they need to have enough wiggle room to adjust the fit, weight, and pattern of the garment
  
  
• Don’t overcomplicate it and make sure your POMs aren’t overlapping
  
  
• List your POMs in an order that makes sense to you. Maybe you want to start with t-shirts and move over to trousers?
  
  
• Any extra information that can’t be included in the spec list should be detailed in the How to Measure guide